Discover three historic cafés in Genoa between chic breakfasts, afternoon teas and elegant aperitifs in the Caruggi. Genoa has a rare talent: mixing the popular soul of its caruggi with a refinement that appears suddenly, almost by magic. You walk through fry shops that smell of hot farinata and, around the corner, you find yourself in a 19th-century hall where time seems to have stood still, among hand-polished wood paneling and decorated porcelain. It is this play of contr